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<html><p> Installing a New Shower Unit</p><p> </p>An effective shower installation requires careful preparation and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will require to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, installing the pipes, and finishing walls. <p> </p>Preparation<p> </p>Firstly, you need to decide on the kind of shower that you wish to set up. It is necessary to ascertain whether the selected shower is capable of managing particular systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains). <p> </p>It is likewise important to consider the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower<p> </p>Different Kinds of Shower Units<p> </p><p> <iframe  src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pdVUlFWYFLQ" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p>Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and incredibly simple to set up. However, although the hose connection is easy, it is easily dislodged. In addition, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature. <p> </p>Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost choice and no additional pipes is included. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from troublesome temperature control choices. <p> </p>Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water materials are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the previously discussed mixers. They likewise require extra pipes of cold and hot water system pipes.<p> </p><p> <iframe  src="https://maps.google.com/maps?width=100%&height=600&hl=en&coord=-38.08538,145.17431&q=Fix%20It%20Right%20Plumbing%20Melbourne&ie=UTF8&t=&z=14&iwloc=B&output=embed" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p>Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. Among the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature control. However, it is the most costly of the various mixer alternatives. <p> </p>Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing an effective electrical pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure. <p> </p>Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is necessary to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system enables the temperature level and pressure to be changed via a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps in other places in use within the family. A significant drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this problem is taken on in some designs which are offered with a winter/summer setting. <p> </p>Method<p> </p>Depending on the kind of shower you want to install, the shower head need to either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.<p> </p>Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. In addition, the drain system to get rid of the waste water will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will likewise need to be considered if an immediate or electric shower system is being installed.<p> </p>Use the instruction guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.<p> </p>Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water system. In order to safeguard the pipes, they ought to be offered a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.<p> </p>Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.<p> </p>Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This might need a female screw thread adapter). <p> </p>Reconnect the water system and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.<p> </p>If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there should be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.<p> </p>Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower<p> </p>The cold water tank can be lifted to a greater height (in some cases as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support below it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you pick this alternative, the main and circulation pipelines will also need to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.<p> </p>Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.<p> </p>Piping and Drainage<p> </p>It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding maintain maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. Additionally, by reducing the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water system. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.<p> </p>Most Common Mistakes<p> </p> # Breaching or overlooking local code restrictions.<p> </p> # Using pipes that are too small.<p> </p> # Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.<p> </p> # Not <a href="https://wiki-saloon.win/index.php/How_to_tidy_bed_mattress_stains_70902"><strong>top-rated plumbing company</strong></a> using tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.<p> </p> # Not leveling your components when setting up them.<p> </p> # Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.<p> </p><p> <img  src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tZoY0MpCD98/hq720.jpg" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p> # Cutting supply stub outs too short to <a href="https://qqpipi.com//index.php/Common_plumbing_leaks_in_homes_14618">top plumbing professionals</a> install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.<p> </p> # Not correctly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)<p> </p> # When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.<p> </p></html>