View source for Lawn Care Company Myths Debunked 25051

<html><p> <img  src="https://seo-neo-test.s3.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/eas-landscaping/lawn%20care%20services.png" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p><p> A well-kept lawn looks effortless from the sidewalk, yet anyone who has carried a hose across crunchy turf in August knows how much judgment and timing sit behind that even green. Over the years, I have walked properties with homeowners who felt burned by a contractor, and I have also seen excellent crews do quiet, meticulous work that never ends up on social media. In the middle of those stories sit persistent myths, the kind that push people to overpay, under-water, or hire the wrong lawn care company for the job. Let’s air out the common misconceptions and replace them with practical, field-tested perspective.</p> <h2> Myth: All lawn care services are the same, so you should pick by price</h2> <p> The assumption makes sense if you picture mowing and pruning as a commodity. In practice, two crews can show up with identical equipment and deliver very different results in a season. The difference hides in the basics: how sharp the mower blades stay, whether the crew varies cut height with weather, and who calibrates the spreader before dropping fertilizer. A lawn care company with solid training checks these details on a set schedule. A cheaper outfit often tries to make up margin on volume and speed, and that’s when you see scalped edges, mower burn, or improper herbicide mixes.</p> <p> I’ve seen properties where a ten dollar per visit price difference created a thousand dollar swing in end-of-season outcomes. One client chose the lowest bid, then called me six weeks later to ask why the turf had yellow stripes. The mower deck on their provider’s unit had settled out of level. Fixing that mistake required a top-dress of compost and a light overseed to reset the canopy. Saving a few bucks on paper cost time, stress, and more money.</p> <p> When comparing lawn care services, price matters, but look for the scaffolding around it: insurance certificates, state applicator licenses, documented mower maintenance, and how the company plans seasonal adjustments. Ask how many properties each crew handles per day. A route that crams 25 stops into eight hours forces corners to be cut. A lawn care company that caps crews at 12 to 15 visits daily is signaling that they expect the work to take real time.</p> <h2> Myth: Weekly mowing is always ideal</h2> <p> Lawns do not grow at a steady rate. Cool-season turf sprints in spring and fall, then loafs through summer heat. Warm-season varieties like Bermuda or Zoysia pick up in late spring once the soil holds heat, yet they also slow when weather swings dry. Following a rigid weekly cut creates problems, especially the temptation to mow too short to “buy time” to the next visit.</p> <p> The one-third rule works better than the calendar. Never remove more than one-third of the blade length at a time, and set deck height based on species and microclimate. Tall fescue wants 3 to 4 inches. Kentucky bluegrass can sit between 2.5 and 3.5 inches, higher during heat. Bermuda likes it short, often 1 to 2 inches, but that only works with frequent cuts and very sharp blades. A good landscaper watches growth by the clippings left behind and the feel of the turf underfoot. If I step into fescue and my shoe disappears, it is time to mow, even if we were there five days ago.</p> <p> There are weeks, particularly in mid-summer, when skipping a mow preserves the lawn. For cool-season lawns under heat stress, the best “service” is sometimes to leave the mower on the trailer, raise the deck for the next visit, and focus on spot watering, pest monitoring, and edging only where needed. That call takes experience and a customer willing to trade routine for results.</p> <h2> Myth: A lush lawn is about water and fertilizer, nothing more</h2> <p> If inputs alone created healthy turf, every big-box spring bundle would produce golf-course turf by Memorial Day. The missing pieces are soil structure, organic matter, and the living web beneath the grass. Over the years, the lawns that look good without constant intervention share one trait: the owners or their landscaper tended the soil.</p> <p> Compaction is the quiet killer. Foot traffic, mower wheels, and clay-heavy subsoil squeeze out pore space. Without pores, roots stay shallow and the grass depends on surface moisture, which disappears fast in heat. Mechanical core aeration, done once or twice per year in the right season, lifts needles of soil, opens channels for water, and invites roots deeper. I tell clients to think about aeration as rent paid to the soil. It rarely produces an Instagram moment the next day, but it supports everything that follows.</p> <p> Organic matter matters because it holds moisture and nutrients like a sponge. A half-inch top-dress of screened compost after aeration moves a good lawn to great. The numbers are modest, an increase of one to two percent in organic matter content over a few seasons, yet the difference shows when drought hits. With better structure and biology, a lawn stays green several days longer between irrigations.</p> <p> Fertilizer has its place, but the right product and timing depend on soil tests. I have seen homeowners chase a yellow lawn with nitrogen, only to discover low potassium or a pH that kept nutrients unavailable. Spend the money for a professional lab test every year or two. A lawn care company that runs blind without tests is guessing, even if the guesses are educated.</p> <h2> Myth: Water deeply once a week and you’re set</h2> <p> Water advice travels in snippets. Many people heard the <a href="https://charlie-wiki.win/index.php/Landscaping_Services_for_Sloped_and_Uneven_Lawns_11499">local landscaper experts</a> “one inch per week” idea and applied it like a law. It is a solid starting point, not a rule. One inch in a breezy, 95-degree week is not equal to one inch during mild weather, and different soils hold water differently. Sandy lawns drain fast and want smaller, more frequent cycles. Heavy clay holds longer but can repel water at the surface when baked dry. The best landscaper learns how long each zone needs to run to deliver that inch, then adjusts for weather and season.</p> <p> The simplest tool is a group of tuna cans or rain gauges. Place them across a zone and run the system. Time how long it takes to collect a half inch. That data, paired with a metal probe that tells you how deep moisture reached, sets a baseline. Once you know a zone needs 25 minutes to deliver half an inch, you can split that into two cycles 45 minutes apart to reduce runoff, or adjust heads to correct poor overlap.</p> <p> Irrigation controllers have improved in the last decade, but smart features only help when programmed correctly and kept in sync with reality. I have seen controllers set for 20 minutes per zone year-round because “that’s what the last guy did.” A lawn care company that offers irrigation audits, even basic ones, pays for itself fast by eliminating waste and reducing disease pressure from overwatering.</p> <h2> Myth: If it’s green and mowed, your lawn is healthy</h2> <p> Green hides a lot. Turf can look acceptable from the street while thinning at the crown level, loaded with shallow roots and vulnerable to a grub bloom or a hot week in July. I walk lawns with a simple rule: get on my knees every few weeks. Pull a handful of grass and look at the crown. If the junction where the blades meet the stem looks tan or mushy, the plant is stressed. Check root depth with a trowel. Two inches means the lawn is living paycheck to paycheck. Four to six inches shows resilience.</p><p> <iframe  src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d3057.5070784045124!2d-75.17714149999999!3d39.974772099999996!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x89c6c7c76790a42f%3A0xf3e57b67897457a4!2sEAS%20Landscaping!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sus!4v1758655039607!5m2!1sen!2sus" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p> <p> Color can also come from the wrong plant. A lawn full of annual bluegrass often looks green in spring, then collapses in heat. Rough bluegrass leaves a minty green patch that turns greasy under foot traffic. A seasoned landscaper separates surface appearance from the underlying stand. That assessment guides whether to nurse the existing lawn with overseeding and soil work or to plan a renovation. Accepting that a lawn planted in the wrong species for the site needs a reset saves years of frustration.</p> <h2> Myth: More fertilizer equals faster improvement</h2> <p> Over-fertilization drives quick flushes of growth, but not health. It produces lanky blades that invite disease and demand more mowing. I once consulted on an office park where the maintenance team stacked four heavy nitrogen applications in eight weeks. The turf did look green, then dollar spot showed up like snowdrifts. The underlying cause was a combination of stress from a growth surge and inconsistent watering. Dialing back nitrogen, adding a slow-release source, and spacing feedings stabilized the lawn without a fungicide.</p> <p> Look for a fertilizer plan that balances immediate availability and slow release. Polymer-coated urea, methylene urea, or organics like feather meal deliver nitrogen over weeks. The timing should hang on soil temperature, not the calendar. For cool-season lawns, a late fall feeding after top growth stops and before the ground freezes sets up dense spring green-up with fewer early feedings. Warm-season lawns want more nutrition during peak growth, roughly late spring to mid-summer, with careful attention to summer stress.</p> <h2> Myth: You can’t control weeds without blanket herbicides</h2> <p> Blanket pre-emergent applications are common because they work against a range of weeds like crabgrass. The myth creeps in when people assume the only way to maintain a clean lawn is through broad chemical routines. Spot treatments are not only possible, they are often smarter. A lawn care company that trains its crews to scout weeds can reduce total herbicide use meaningfully. Targeting dandelions, plantain, and thistle with a handheld sprayer leaves the rest of the lawn untouched.</p> <p> Cultural practices do half the weed control for free. Mowing at the right height shades the soil and reduces germination. Proper nitrogen discourages clover takeover without eliminating diversity in a mixed-use area. Overseeding in fall fills gaps that would otherwise invite winter annuals. Pre-emergents still have a role, especially against crabgrass, but the strongest programs blend them with physical and cultural controls, then reserve blanket treatments for real problems.</p> <h2> Myth: A landscaper will do everything, so your involvement isn’t needed</h2> <p> Hiring professionals does not mean you should disappear from your own property. The best relationships I have seen between homeowners and a landscaper look like a relay race. The crew handles the heavy lifting and technical work, while the homeowner keeps eyes on day-to-day changes and communicates shifts in goals. If you notice pooling water near a head or new brown patches after a family gathering, let your lawn care company know right away. Early alerts prevent spirals.</p> <p> Provide boundaries and priorities. Maybe you want a low-input lawn that tolerates clover and reduces chemical dependency. Maybe you host soccer games for kids every weekend and need extra reinforcement in high-wear zones. Clear direction helps the company tune mowing patterns, adjust irrigation, and pick seed blends. I have reoriented entire maintenance plans after learning a client’s dog had allergies or <a href="https://mag-wiki.win/index.php/Designing_a_Wildlife-Friendly_Yard_with_a_Landscaper_87594"><strong>experienced landscaper team</strong></a> a child used a shaded corner for a reading spot. Those details are not minor; they drive the practical choices that matter.</p> <h2> Myth: Landscaping services and lawn maintenance are interchangeable</h2> <p> The words live close together in ads, but they describe different scopes. Lawn maintenance typically covers mowing, edging, trimming, fertilization, weed control, and seasonal cleanups. Landscaping services stretch wider into design, plant installation, drainage corrections, tree work, hardscapes, and lighting. A lawn care company can offer both under one roof, or it may specialize in one area and subcontract the other.</p> <p> This distinction matters when soliciting bids. If you need a French drain along a soggy side yard, a maintenance-focused team might not have the grading expertise or equipment to guarantee fall and flow. If you need weekly reliability, a design-build landscaper might be priced and staffed for projects, not routine service. I have seen clients frustrated because they hired a landscaper who built a stunning patio but struggled to keep the lawn crisp in August. Clarify scope up front and match provider strengths with needs.</p> <h2> Myth: You can fix a lawn in one season</h2> <p> Turf is a perennial plant community. The improvements you make now echo months later, sometimes a year. I remind clients that renovations settle in stages. After a fall overseed, the first spring often looks patchy as new grass establishes roots. By the second fall, with consistent mowing height, proper irrigation, and balanced feeding, the canopy thickens and crowds out weeds. Soil improvements lag even more. It can take two to four seasons for modest increases in organic matter to show their full effect.</p> <p> I understand the desire for quick change. People often call after a hot, dry summer hoping to erase damage before a graduation party in three weeks. Some short-term wins exist, such as dyeing a brown patch green for an event or laying sod strategically in focal areas. But meaningful, lasting gains come with patience and a plan that a lawn care company sticks to through weather swings. If a provider promises a miracle lawn in 30 days without qualifying the claim, ask careful questions.</p> <h2> Myth: Spring is the only time that matters</h2> <p> Spring energy is tempting. Stores stack fertilizer by the pallet, and everyone wants to get outside. Yet fall typically offers the best window for core work like seeding, aeration, and heavy feeding in cool-season regions. Cooler air and warm soil give grassroots a comfortable runway. Disease pressure drops, and weed germination patterns shift in your favor. A fall schedule prepares the lawn to wake up strong next spring without aggressive early feeding that can spur disease.</p> <p> Summer, often ignored except for mowing, deserves attention in pacing. Raising mowing height by half an inch during a heat spell, adjusting irrigation to earlier morning cycles, and accepting a slight fade from peak green can protect the lawn. In warm-season zones, late spring through mid-summer is the main stage. Pre-emergents go <a href="https://wiki-dale.win/index.php/Beyond_Mowing:_What_Full-Service_Lawn_Care_Includes_99405">landscaping maintenance services</a> down as soil temps climb, and nutrient plans align with Bermuda or Zoysia growth, not the calendar on your fridge.</p> <h2> Myth: A brand name guarantees quality</h2> <p> I have worked with national brands that run tight ships and others that rely heavily on scripts. The logo on the truck tells you less than the local branch manager’s standards and the crew leader’s eye. Conversely, I have seen small independent outfits deliver meticulous work because the owner is on-site and holds tools alongside the crew. Scale cuts both ways. A large lawn care company might bring better insurance, training resources, and a bench of specialists. A small landscaper might offer flexibility and deeper familiarity with your property.</p> <p> Talk to references in your neighborhood. Drive past properties serviced by a provider and look at the edges, the lines around trees, and <a href="https://wiki-fusion.win/index.php/Seasonal_Landscaping_Services:_Spring,_Summer,_Fall,_Winter_61646"><strong>seasonal lawn maintenance</strong></a> how the turf meets beds. Ask about turnover and who will actually be on your lawn week after week. Stability in crew assignments often correlates with quality because the same eyes notice subtle changes.</p> <h2> Myth: Bagging clippings keeps the lawn cleaner and healthier</h2> <p> There are legitimate reasons to bag, such as preventing spread of weed seed heads or cleaning up after a late-season leaf fall. As a standard practice, though, mulching clippings returns nitrogen to the soil and helps maintain moisture. With sharp blades and the right mowing frequency, clippings disappear into the canopy. Studies and field experience both point to a free fertilizer effect worth roughly one feeding per year.</p> <p> The problems arise when the lawn is overgrown and clippings clump. That issue is not a condemnation of mulching, it’s a sign that the mowing schedule needs adjustment. I carry a rake on the trailer for those weeks when weather stretches the interval and we want to avoid smothering. Most of the time, leaving clippings in place saves disposal costs, supports soil life, and keeps lawns greener longer.</p> <h2> Myth: Sod is always better than seed</h2> <p> Sod delivers instant cover and solves erosion and mud in a day. It also costs more per square foot and demands careful watering during establishment. Seed, especially for cool-season lawns, offers more cultivar choices and better long-term rooting when timed correctly. I often recommend sod for small, high-visibility patches or along walkways where seed would struggle under foot traffic. For a full lawn renovation, seed in fall accompanied by diligent irrigation and a pre-emergent plan tailored for new seed often outperforms sod on value.</p> <p> One caution with sod: match the sod farm’s grass type to your site. Installing Kentucky bluegrass sod in dense shade sets up disappointment. Choose tall fescue blends for shade tolerance, or consider shade-adapted groundcovers in the darkest corners instead of fighting thin turf year after year.</p> <h2> Myth: Equipment makes the pro</h2> <p> Good tools matter. Dull blades tear grass and create disease entry points. Poorly calibrated spreaders waste product. But equipment is a multiplier, not the core. Technique and observation drive outcomes. I have seen immaculate lawns cut with modest commercial walk-behinds because the operator adjusted deck height as conditions changed, mowed alternating patterns to avoid ruts, and made the last pass down the visible axis from the front door. I have also seen high-dollar riders leave washboard lines because the deck was never leveled.</p> <p> If you are evaluating a lawn care company, watch the crew work for five minutes. Do they trim around irrigation heads without scalping? Do they blow clippings back onto the lawn rather than into the street? Does the crew leader inspect the result before leaving? Those small habits predict the big picture over a season.</p> <h2> Myth: Landscaping chemicals are inherently unsafe for families and pets</h2> <p> Respect the risks, do not exaggerate them. Modern lawn care products come with clear labels, re-entry intervals, and application rates tested for safety when used as directed. Problems crop up when labels are ignored or when DIYers mix concentrates without measuring. A responsible lawn care company trains licensed applicators, uses the least amount needed, and communicates aftercare instructions.</p> <p> If you prefer a lower-input program, say so. Many lawns thrive with reduced synthetic inputs paired with spot treatments, overseeding, compost amendments, and careful irrigation. I have clients who ask for no-spray areas around play zones, and we adjust. A good landscaper will mark treated areas, note re-entry times, and choose products with lower volatility near sensitive spaces.</p> <h2> Myth: New lawns need constant babying</h2> <p> Overwatering and overfeeding kill more new lawns than neglect. Whether you choose seed or sod, the first goal is establishment, not pushing top growth. For seed, the target is consistent surface moisture until germination, then a careful transition to deeper, less frequent watering as roots develop. I often start with two to four light waterings per day in warm, dry weather, then taper to once daily, then to every other day, watching the grass rather than the calendar. For sod, the initial week demands heavy watering to ensure contact and prevent edges from curling. After the first 7 to 10 days, reduce frequency and increase depth to encourage roots into the native soil.</p> <p> Fertilizer for new lawns should be modest and balanced, with phosphorus only if soil tests justify it. High-nitrogen feeding early on risks weak, lush growth that collapses. The steadier path produces a lawn that handles its first summer without drama.</p> <h2> How to choose the right partner for your property</h2> <p> If you have read this far, you know there is no universal formula. Still, a few focused checks save time when selecting a lawn care company or landscaper.</p> <ul>  <li> Ask about licensing, insurance, and training. Request the applicator’s license number and proof of general liability and workers’ comp.</li> <li> Request a seasonal plan in writing. Look for soil testing, mowing height targets, irrigation adjustments, and timing of aeration or overseeding.</li> <li> Walk a property they maintain. Inspect edges, bed transitions, and turf density in high-traffic areas.</li> <li> Clarify communication. Find out who your point of contact is and how service changes or weather delays are handled.</li> <li> Discuss goals and constraints. Share your tolerance for weeds, budget, traffic patterns, and any chemical preferences.</li> </ul> <p> These steps align expectations and reveal whether the provider treats lawn maintenance as a checklist or a craft.</p> <h2> Where lawn care meets landscaping</h2> <p> The most satisfying projects begin when routine lawn maintenance and broader landscaping services speak to each other. A drainage fix upstream of a soggy corner might reduce mowing headaches and eliminate fungus. A bed redesign with proper mulch depth and edge restraint cuts back on string trimming that can nick tree bark. Choosing the right grass cultivar during a renovation simplifies the fertilization schedule later. When your landscaper and lawn care company operate with a shared map, every visit is more effective.</p> <p> I once took over a property that had seen five different providers in three years. The lawn suffered from shallow roots, uneven irrigation, and a mismatched patchwork of sod varieties. We paused the churn, ran a soil test, repaired three leaking rotors, set a consistent mowing height, and booked fall aeration with compost top-dressing. The client asked for visible progress in six weeks. What we promised instead was a steady build. By the next spring, the lawn stopped scalping along the south-facing slope, and a summer later, we had reduced weed incursions by half without increasing herbicide use. The turning point was alignment and patience, not a miracle product.</p> <h2> The quiet advantage of paying attention</h2> <p> Lawns are not complicated, but they do reward attention to conditions rather than dogma. Most myths survive because they offer certainty. Real lawns live in the middle ground, where timing, weather, and species drive choices. A responsive lawn care company or landscaper will:</p> <ul>  <li> Adjust mowing height with season and species, not habit.</li> <li> Calibrate spreaders and sprayers and keep blades sharp.</li> <li> Recommend aeration and top-dressing when compaction or thatch warrants it.</li> <li> Program irrigation to deliver water where and when the soil accepts it.</li> <li> Communicate openly about trade-offs, costs, and timelines.</li> </ul> <p> When you find that partner, stick with them. Give the plan time. Resist shortcuts that promise instant perfection and leave longer problems behind. A healthy lawn is a small ecosystem tuned by human hands. Debunk the myths, lean into observation, and the grass under your feet will tell you when you are getting it right.</p><p><p>EAS Landscaping is a landscaping company</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping is based in Philadelphia</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping has address 1234 N 25th St Philadelphia PA 19121</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping has phone number (267) 670-0173</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping has map location <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/tmfJeXsUjPjS2ydV7" target="_blank">View on Google Maps</a></p>
<p>EAS Landscaping provides landscaping services</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping provides lawn care services</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping provides garden design services</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping provides tree and shrub maintenance</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping serves residential clients</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping serves commercial clients</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping was awarded Best Landscaping Service in Philadelphia 2023</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping was awarded Excellence in Lawn Care 2022</p>
<p>EAS Landscaping was awarded Philadelphia Green Business Recognition 2021</p>
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EAS Landscaping<br>
1234 N 25th St, Philadelphia, PA 19121<br>
(267) 670-0173<br>
Website: <a href="http://www.easlh.com/">http://www.easlh.com/</a>
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<h2>Frequently Asked Questions About Lawn Care Services</h2>
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<p><strong>What is considered full service lawn care?</strong><br><br>
Full service typically includes mowing, edging, trimming, blowing/cleanup, seasonal fertilization, weed control, pre-emergent treatment, aeration (seasonal), overseeding (cool-season lawns), shrub/hedge trimming, and basic bed maintenance. Many providers also offer add-ons like pest control, mulching, and leaf removal.</p><br>

<p><strong>How much do you pay for lawn care per month?</strong><br><br>
For a standard suburban lot with weekly or biweekly mowing, expect roughly $100–$300 per month depending on lawn size, visit frequency, region, and whether fertilization/weed control is bundled. Larger properties or premium programs can run $300–$600+ per month.</p><br>

<p><strong>What's the difference between lawn care and lawn service?</strong><br><br>
Lawn care focuses on turf health (fertilization, weed control, soil amendments, aeration, overseeding). Lawn service usually refers to routine maintenance like mowing, edging, and cleanup. Many companies combine both as a program.</p><br>

<p><strong>How to price lawn care jobs?</strong><br><br>
Calculate by lawn square footage, obstacles/trim time, travel time, and service scope. Set a minimum service fee, estimate labor hours, add materials (fertilizer, seed, mulch), and include overhead and profit. Common methods are per-mow pricing, monthly flat rate, or seasonal contracts.</p><br>

<p><strong>Why is lawn mowing so expensive?</strong><br><br>
Costs reflect labor, fuel, equipment purchase and maintenance, insurance, travel, and scheduling efficiency. Complex yards with fences, slopes, or heavy trimming take longer, increasing the price per visit.</p><br>

<p><strong>Do you pay before or after lawn service?</strong><br><br>
Policies vary. Many companies bill after each visit or monthly; some require prepayment for seasonal programs. Contracts should state billing frequency, late fees, and cancellation terms.</p><br>

<p><strong>Is it better to hire a lawn service?</strong><br><br>
Hiring saves time, ensures consistent scheduling, and often improves turf health with professional products and timing. DIY can save money if you have the time, equipment, and knowledge. Consider lawn size, your schedule, and desired results.</p><br>

<p><strong>How much does TruGreen cost per month?</strong><br><br>
Pricing varies by location, lawn size, and selected program. Many homeowners report monthly equivalents in the $40–$120+ range for fertilization and weed control plans, with add-ons increasing cost. Request a local quote for an exact price.</p><br>
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  <h2 itemprop="name">EAS Landscaping</h2>
  <span itemprop="legalName">EAS Landscaping</span>
  <p itemprop="description">
    EAS Landscaping provides landscape installations, hardscapes, and landscape design. We specialize in native plants and city spaces.
  </p>
  <a itemprop="url" href="http://www.easlh.com/">http://www.easlh.com/</a><br>
  <span itemprop="telephone">(267) 670-0173</span><br>
  <a itemprop="hasMap" href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/tmfJeXsUjPjS2ydV7" target="_blank">Find us on Google Maps</a>

  <div itemprop="address" itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/PostalAddress">
    <span itemprop="streetAddress">1234 N 25th St</span>, 
    <span itemprop="addressLocality">Philadelphia</span>, 
    <span itemprop="postalCode">19121</span>, 
    <span itemprop="addressCountry">US</span>
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  <meta itemprop="openingHours" content="Mo 08:30-18:00">
  <meta itemprop="openingHours" content="Tu 08:30-18:00">
  <meta itemprop="openingHours" content="We 08:30-18:00">
  <meta itemprop="openingHours" content="Th 08:30-18:00">
  <meta itemprop="openingHours" content="Fr 08:30-18:00">
  <meta itemprop="openingHours" content="Sa 09:00-13:00">

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  <h3>Business Hours</h3>
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    <li>Monday: 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM</li>
    <li>Tuesday: 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM</li>
    <li>Wednesday: 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM</li>
    <li>Thursday: 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM</li>
    <li>Friday: 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM</li>
    <li>Saturday: 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM</li>
    <li>Sunday: Closed</li>
  </ul>
</div>
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