Setting up a new shower unit 90249
Setting Up a New Shower Unit
A successful shower installation needs cautious planning and a great deal of work. In most cases, you will require to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must select the kind of shower that you want to install. It is very important to determine whether the chosen shower can handling certain systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are developed to be versatile to various water pressures (such as saved hot water and cold mains).
It is also essential to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature level can be adjusted by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and very easy to set up. However, although the tube connection is simple, it is quickly removed. In addition, it is inconvenient to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a really cheap alternative and no additional plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience inconvenient temperature control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the formerly discussed mixers. They also require additional pipes of hot and cold supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from becoming too hot. One of the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of convenient temperature control. However, it is the most pricey of the different mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including a powerful electric pump that can modifying both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit permits the temperature level and pressure to be changed by means of a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are better as they stay unaffected by other taps in other places in usage within the home. A significant drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob only permits the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a higher pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this issue is tackled in some designs which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to set up, the shower head must either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drainage system to remove the drainage will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will likewise need to be thought about if a rapid or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the direction guide supplied with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to quality best plumber the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they must be given a water resistant covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there need to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance below it-- possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you select this option, the primary and distribution pipelines will also need to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by reducing making use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the supply of water. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or overlooking regional code restrictions.
# Using pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not using reliable plumbing company tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the ended up wall remains in place.
# Not appropriately aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.