Installing a new shower system 30229

Setting Up a New Shower Unit

An effective shower installation requires cautious preparation and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do 3 types of jobs: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you must pick the type of shower that you want to set up. It is essential to determine whether the selected shower is emergency plumber in Dandenong capable of coping with certain systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).

It is also essential to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drain for the shower

Different residential plumber Somerville Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and exceptionally simple to install. Nevertheless, although the pipe connection is easy, it is easily dislodged. Furthermore, it is inconvenient to adjust the temperature level.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is a really low-cost option and no additional plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with bothersome temperature control options.

Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the previously pointed out mixers. They likewise need extra pipes of cold and hot water supply pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water supplies are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from becoming too hot. One of the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature level control. However, it is the most costly of the various mixer choices.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing an effective electric pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is very important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps in other places in usage within the household. A major downside of electrical showers is that the control knob just permits the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a higher pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is often weak and the mains water is colder. Nevertheless, this issue is tackled in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.

Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Furthermore, the drainage system to remove the waste water will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise require to be thought about if an instant or electric shower system is being installed.

Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower unit to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they must be provided a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may need tightening.

If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have actually been made (there ought to be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower

The cold water tank can be raised to a greater height (in some cases just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood assistance beneath it-- possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you select this alternative, the main and distribution pipelines will also have to be raised to fulfill the new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding maintain maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising using elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can accomplish this by flexing the pipelines instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or disregarding regional code restrictions.

# Utilizing pipes that are too small.

# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not utilizing tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your components when setting up them.

# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall remains in place.

# Not correctly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outdoors hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.