Installing a new shower system 22185

Setting Up a New Shower Unit

A successful shower installation needs careful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will require to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and ending up walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you need to select the kind of shower that you want to install. It is very important to ascertain whether the selected shower can managing certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower systems nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).

It is also essential to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Kinds of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and very easy to set up. However, although the pipe connection is easy, it trusted plumber Baxter is quickly dislodged. In addition, it is inconvenient to change the temperature.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of licensed plumber in Mornington this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is an extremely cheap alternative and no additional pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with troublesome temperature level control alternatives.

Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the formerly discussed mixers. They also require additional pipes of cold and hot supply of water pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the most significant advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most costly of the different mixer choices.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including a powerful electric pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit permits the temperature and pressure to be changed through a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere in usage within the household. A major disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is colder. Nevertheless, this issue is tackled in some designs which are available with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the type of shower you wish to set up, the shower head must either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.

Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. In addition, the drainage system to remove the drainage will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if an instant or electrical shower system is being installed.

Use the guideline guide provided with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the water system. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they ought to be offered a water resistant covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This might need a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water system and test the pipes for any leaks, as some might need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there ought to be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Fit Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be raised to a higher height (often as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood assistance below it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you choose this choice, the main and circulation pipelines will likewise have to be raised to satisfy the new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to preserve maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. In addition, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can accomplish this by flexing the pipes instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Breaching or disregarding regional code restrictions.

# Using pipelines that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not utilizing residential plumbing Dandenong tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your components when installing them.

# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.

# Not correctly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when affordable plumber in Dandenong the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can cause issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.