Exterior RV Repairs: Window Reseal and Door Positioning
The call can be found in after a coastal storm, the kind that leaves evergreen boughs on the highway and salt crust on your windscreen. A couple had discovered damp carpet underneath their dinette and a faint drip working its way below the rear window frame. While we existed, they discussed the entry door had actually begun catching on the striker plate. 2 problems that seem small on a sunny day, however they're the distinction in between a dry, peaceful coach and a weekend spent mopping and fiddling with a lock. Exterior RV repairs aren't glamorous, yet this work keeps your rig tight, comfortable, and safe.
I've resealed hundreds of windows and corrected more door positionings than I can count. The jobs share a theme: little tolerances and simple products decide whether the coach stays weatherproof. You can take on both as a capable owner with constant hands and perseverance, or you can schedule a mobile RV service technician and have it done curbside while you prep for your next journey. Either way, comprehending how and why these repairs go right makes a difference.
Why a window reseal matters more than it looks
RV windows count on a sandwich of parts: the glass in an aluminum or composite frame, a butyl tape bedding against the wall, and a trim ring or flange on the inside that secures everything together. That soft layer, generally butyl, is the hero. It cold-flows with time to fill flaws, adheres to fiberglass or aluminum skins, and remains flexible. 10 years later on, especially after hot summers and freezing winter seasons, the butyl diminishes, the frame loosens up slightly, and you'll see hairline gaps. That's when wind-driven rain or perhaps a hose spray will discover its way inside.
The consequences aren't just damp curtains. Water follows structure. It wicks into luan and insulation, turns screws rusty, discolorations interior wallboard, and can delaminate a fiberglass wall if it sits long enough. I've seen a little leakage around a bunk window result in a soft flooring in the adjacent corner because the water kept running forward throughout braking. Early intervention is everything. Annual RV upkeep doesn't simply mean oil modifications and roof washdowns, it means walking the boundary and looking carefully at those frames.
Diagnosing the leakage before you get a tube of sealant
Owners often grab a tube of silicone when they see a drip. Withstand that impulse. Surface area caulk seldom fixes a failed bedding. It can even trap water behind it. Start with a regulated test and a plan.
A clean surface reveals a lot. Wash the area with a mild detergent, rinse, and dry. With a bright flashlight, try to find broken trim sealant, raised edges, or frame motion. Gently push the window frame near the top corners. If you see it bend versus the siding, your butyl has likely thinned out and the screws have lost bite.
Next, utilize an assistant with a pipe on a gentle stream, not a pressure washer. Begin low, then work upward in slow sections while someone inside watches with a dry paper towel. Start at the bottom edge, wait a minute, then the sides, then the top. Persistence matters here due to the fact that water can take some time to appear. If the leakage shows only when you damp the top flange, Lynden RV service and maintenance it's likely the main bed linen. If it shows at the lower corners, a clogged weep hole might be letting water pool and backflow into the coach. Clear those weep holes with a little zip tie or dental pick and test again.
A note on building and construction: frameless windows that hinge at the top can leakage for different reasons than framed slider systems. Frameless designs rely more on the adhesive bond and the outer seal at the glass edge. Slider windows depend on the frame-to-wall bedding and the stability of the track's weep system. Understanding which you have steers your repair approach.
The anatomy of a correct window reseal
Resealing a window properly suggests eliminating it. There are quick spots you can do with a specialized liquid sealant at the top flange when you're on the road and prepping for rain, but the enduring fix is to pull, tidy, re-bed, and reinstall. That's how an RV service center will do it, and it's the method mobile RV specialists manage it in a driveway or camping area without drama.
Here's the workflow we follow, pared down to the essentials but with the small touches that prevent do-overs:
- Preparation checklist:
- Painter's tape, plastic sheeting, and a cushioned table or blanket
- # 2 square-drive bit or Phillips, depending on the screws, plus a hand screwdriver
- Plastic razor blades and plastic scrapers
- Mineral spirits or a panel-safe adhesive remover, and tidy rags
- Fresh butyl tape, typically 1-inch broad by 1/8-inch thick
- Non-sag polyurethane or RV-specific sealant for outside seams
- Nitrile gloves and wood shims
- A friend for the lift-out and set-in
From inside the RV, remove the interior trim ring. Keep screws sorted and keep in mind any that spin easily, a hint to removed holes. With the trim off, the window will be held only by the exterior flange and the friction of the old butyl. Tape the exterior perimeter to protect the paint or gelcoat, then have your assistant hold the window outside while you carefully push from inside along the frame. In cool weather condition the butyl launches more voluntarily. If it's hot, work gradually so you do not twist the frame.
Once the window is on the padded table, concentrate on cleanliness. This is where perseverance settles. Use plastic razors to raise old butyl from the window flange and the RV wall. Avoid metal scrapers that can gouge the gelcoat or anodized frame. If there's silicone residue, it may roll off under a small amount of mineral spirits, however do not soak the wall. A completely tidy, dry surface area is non-negotiable.
Bed the frame with fresh butyl tape, pushed along the entire flange in a continuous loop with overlapped ends at the bottom edge. The overlap at the bottom assists water shed, rather than pool and discover a joint. On irregular walls, consider a double layer around the top radius and corners to account for minor waviness.
To reinstall, set two temporary wood shims or plastic spacers at the sill to support the weight and keep the system level while you align it. With your helper outside holding the window square to the opening, enter from within and begin setting the interior ring with screws finger-tight. Operate in a star pattern. This compresses the butyl equally, avoiding a thin spot at one corner. Switch to a hand screwdriver for last tightening. Power drivers can finish threads in soft wood support strips behind the wall.
Watch for squeeze-out. You should see a consistent bead of butyl pushing out around the whole boundary. That's your visual verification the bedding is continuous. Trim the excess with a plastic blade, then run a little cosmetic bead of non-sag polyurethane on top and down the sides, not across the bottom. Leaving the bottom unsealed lets any incidental wetness drain out, rather than being trapped.
Two cautions from experience: if your screws never totally tighten up and keep spinning, the backing substrate may be compromised. That's a larger repair best managed at a regional RV repair work depot where they can evaluate the wall structure. And if you find significant rust, moldy black wood dust, or delamination around the opening, stop and reassess. Dealing with rot before resealing is the ideal move, even if it delays your next trip.
Door alignment: a quarter inch makes or breaks the day
Entry doors live a difficult life. The coach bends on rough roadways, the door frame warms and cools, and folks swing on the manage when stepping out. Gradually you'll see a door that sits proud at the top, rubs the latch striker, or needs an additional slam to catch. Left alone, the misalignment chews up the lock, opens a space in the bulb seal, and whistles on the highway.
The great news is that many door problems solve with adjustments you can do with standard tools. Only a few require hinge shims, striker relocation, or frame truing.
Here's a compact sequence that I utilize in the field:
- Step-by-step positioning series:
- Inspect the hinges for play. Lift the door somewhat when it's open; if you feel slop, tighten the hinge screws. Replace removed screws with one size longer or a slightly bigger size as needed.
- Check the bulb seal. A flattened or torn seal can simulate misalignment. Change it first if it's clearly tired.
- Adjust the latch striker. Loosen the torx or Phillips screws simply enough to move the plate. Push it in little increments, test the close, and search for even compression marks on the bulb seal.
- Tune the hinge position. Many RV hinges permit minor in-out and up-down movement. Mark initial locations with pencil, loosen, change, retighten, and re-test.
- Verify the frame. If you see a consistent reveal but the door rocks on closing, the frame might be a little racked. Check for loose fasteners on the frame and retighten. Serious racking shows body flex or previous effect, which necessitates a shop evaluation.
Anecdotally, the most typical perpetrator is the striker plate sitting a hair too far inward after a season of bumps. Owners compensate by slamming. Move the striker outside 1 to 2 millimeters, and the door starts to capture with a company push rather of a bang. The second most typical is a hinge side that took out of soft wood. Here, toothpicks and wood glue are a myth on RV doors that bear real weight. Use a proper wood repair epoxy or change with a longer screw that reaches strong backing. If the fastener lands in foam, you'll need a rivet nut or a specialized fastener that spreads out load.
Pay attention to the weatherstrip. Door bulb seals can be found in different profiles, and an incorrect replacement can cause new issues. Too high, and the lock stress. Too short, and you'll hear wind whistle at 60 miles per hour. I carry a small sample package to match the profile to the initial. If you're going shopping online, determine the base width and bulb height, and compare cross sections carefully. A misfit seal results in callbacks.
Sealants, tapes, and the best products for the job
Ask three techs about sealants and you'll hear 5 viewpoints. The truth is simpler: match the material to the joint and the substrate. For bedding a window, usage top quality butyl tape, not putty rope marketed for household window glazing. Butyl remains elastic and abides by fiberglass and aluminum. For cosmetic edge sealing, a non-sag polyurethane or a specialized RV sealant that stays flexible and paintable works well. Avoid generic hardware-store silicone around RV windows. It does not bond reliably to gelcoat, it resists paint, and it contaminates surface areas for future repairs.
On roofing systems and outside trim, lap sealants and self-leveling solutions have their location, but those are different topics. For outside RV repairs on walls and windows, think in regards to bed linen and cladding: the bedding does the waterproofing under compression, the external bead sheds and safeguards edges.
Carry a little solvent like mineral spirits for clean-up, however keep it off rubber and plastics as much as possible. Isopropyl alcohol is more secure for last-pass surface area prep. If you're working around decals, tape them off to prevent raising the edges. In severe sunlight, work in short sessions because softened adhesives act in a different way and can smear.
Common risks and how to prevent them
I've seen creative owners and new techs make the exact same handful of errors. Forewarned is forearmed.
The first mistake is overtightening window screws with a drill. The foam or wood behind the fiberglass isn't a stud like in a house wall. Once stripped, the hole loses securing force. Switch to hand tools for the last quarter turns and feel the resistance.
Second, sealing the bottom flange with a thick bead. It looks good at initially, however it shuts off the drainage course. If any water gets in the frame track, it must weep out. Leave the bottom open or use a tiny cosmetic line that does not block holes.
Third, puzzling cosmetic caulk failures with bedding failure. Hairline fractures on an external bead do not always mean the core seal has actually failed. They matter, but don't tug the window up until you confirm the leakage with a tube test. Alternatively, a perfect-looking outer bead does not ensure a good bedding if you can flex the frame.
Fourth, overlooking door frame fasteners. A misaligned door sometimes traces back to a loose screw on the frame itself, not the hinges or striker. Check the entire system, not just the apparent parts.
Finally, mismatched materials on seaside rigs. Around the Pacific Northwest, salt air accelerates deterioration. Stainless screws near aluminum frames can set up galvanic problems if not isolated. Utilize the appropriate grade, and think about a dab of Teflon-based anti-seize on threads to ease future service without locking them permanently.
When a mobile RV technician is worth it
Plenty of owners manage reseals and door modifications effectively. Others choose their time is better spent planning routes and checking campgrounds. If you don't have an additional set of hands, or if your window is big or high off the ground, a mobile RV technician who does this weekly will move quicker with less risk of a dropped frame or spoiled paint. They bring panel-friendly solvents, plastic blades, a range of butyl widths, and the muscle memory to seat a window square on the very first try.
Another factor to call in assistance is diagnosis. Not every drip originates from the apparent suspect. I've traced "window leaks" to a roofing marker light 3 feet above that routed water down behind best RV maintenance Lynden the wall and out at the window frame. Experience assists draw tidy lines between cause and effect. If water appears on interior walls after highway driving however not throughout a hose test, wind pressure and weep system design may be the culprit, not the bed linen. That's where a seasoned tech makes their keep.
If you're in coastal Oregon or Washington and desire an expert hand, attire like OceanWest RV, Marine & & Devices Upfitters and other regional RV repair work depot groups manage these repairs regularly. They can reseal 2 or three windows in a day, test them, and change your door while they're on website. An RV repair shop with an indoor bay has the advantage during winter season. Dry air, steady temperatures, and managed lighting produce better results, though mobile service is frequently plenty for basic reseals and door work.
Tying window reseals and door positioning into routine RV maintenance
Treat doors and windows like tires and brake lights: they need periodic attention. As part of regular RV upkeep, do a slow walkaround each season. Look for milky sealant, spaces at frame corners, or streaks diminishing from a window on a dry day, a tip of periodic weeping. Open and close the entry door and feel the lock. If it snags or you need to knock it, plan an adjustment before your next long run.
Annual RV upkeep is a great cadence for deeper work. Choose one window each year to pull and re-bed proactively, beginning with the one most exposed to weather. Over a cycle of four to 6 years, you'll revitalize all of them without a marathon session. The same thinking applies to doors: replace the affordable RV repair bulb seal before it stops working. An excellent seal lasts roughly five to eight years depending on sun exposure. If your coach lives under cover, you'll get the high end of that range.
Interior RV repairs often expose exterior problems, and vice versa. A soft interior panel listed below a window is hardly ever just an interior issue. If you discover smell, staining, or a slightly bowed wall inside, look outside and up. On the other hand, a misaligned door that rattles can shake interior trim loose in time. This is the peaceful reasoning of upkeep: systems engage, so treating one discomfort point often avoids another.
Costs, timing, and practical expectations
For a single basic slider window, intend on 2 to 3 hours for a careful reseal if you're doing it yourself the very first time. That consists of cleansing, tape application, install, and a water test. A mobile tech can typically do it in 90 minutes with gear set out. Materials run modest: a roll of quality butyl tape, a tube of sealant, and cleanup products, typically under the cost of a tank of fuel. If you head to a store, anticipate labor charges by the hour, with a window reseal generally billed at 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending upon gain access to and condition.
Door alignments differ. A basic striker tweak is a half-hour task. Hinge deal with fastener repair work can extend to an hour. If the frame is racked due to body flex or prior impact, the fix might need shimming or, in major cases, frame work that belongs at a store with appropriate bracing equipment.
Temperatures matter for scheduling. Adhesives and sealants choose moderate conditions, frequently 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In colder weather, both the butyl and the wall contract and become less cooperative. Work in the afternoon sun, or use a small area heating unit inside the coach to keep the wall and interior ring warm while you set up. In summertime heat, keep the butyl in a cooler so it does not extend into cords as you lay it down.
Be prepared for little surprises. Decal edges near window frames can raise during clean-up. Keep a small roller and edge sealer handy. Screws may reveal previous repairs, with mismatched lengths and heads. Standardize them during reassembly so the next service is straightforward.
A small case research study from the road
One spring in Newport I fulfilled a retired teacher taking a trip solo in a 24-foot Class C. She 'd noticed a moldy odor after rain, however no visible drips. The ideal back window looked fine from outdoors, yet the interior wallpaper felt cool and somewhat wavy. We checked with a tube, area by area. Absolutely nothing. The essential information was her habit of driving coastal highways right after storms. We simulated wind by directing the pipe at a shallow angle, then increased the circulation at the upper frame. A faint line appeared inside.
The bed linen had actually thinned on the leading edge. Under straight-down water, it held. Include wind pressure, and water pressed through a micro gap. We pulled the window, discovered fragile butyl, and re-bedded it. The squeeze-out was even except at one leading corner where the wall had a shallow wave. We doubled the butyl there and seated it again. Later, we adjusted her door striker, which had been soaking up an everyday slam. Together the repairs took half a day with cleanup and coffee breaks. Six months later on, she called to say the smell had disappeared. Little tolerances, huge effects.
The case for thoughtful products and mindful hands
Exterior RV repairs reward systematic work. They're not made complex, but they need regard for details. The ideal butyl, the right sealant, the discipline to leave the bottom flange unsealed, the patience to clean up to bare substrate and tighten up by feel instead of brute force. With windows, water screening is your referee. With doors, the witness marks on the bulb seal and the feel of the latch tell you when you're there.
If you delight in dealing with your own rig, these are pleasing tasks. You'll discover how your coach is put together and notice other concerns before they become problems. If you 'd rather hand it off, a great RV repair shop or a trusted mobile RV specialist will treat your coach with the very same care and stroll you through what they did, so you can keep it confidently.
Either path results in the same result: a quieter cabin on the highway, dry corners after a storm, and a door that closes with a polite click. That's the kind of upkeep that makes every mile more pleasant.
Finding help and planning ahead
For owners near the coast or in rainy areas, schedule these jobs before the damp season. Shops fill rapidly when fall shows up. Call your local RV repair work depot and inquire about their process. A simple script to assess quality goes like this: do you eliminate the window, clean to bare substrate, re-bed with butyl, and test with water before and after? If the response avoids elimination, keep calling. The same vetting applies to door work. Ask how they detect, whether they change seals with matched profiles, and how they deal with removed fasteners.
OceanWest RV, Marine & & Equipment Upfitters and similar specialized teams deal with both interior RV repair work and exterior RV repairs, however make certain to book outside work when the projection cooperates. Mobile consultations go smoother when the coach is parked level with silver lining gain access to and you have a place to set parts on a clean pad or table.
If you're doing the work yourself, stock the products during your yearly RV maintenance restock. Fresh butyl, the right sealant, plastic blades, a couple of extra fasteners, and a brand-new bulb seal make the difference between a same-day fix and a two-week parts wait.
Final thoughts from the store floor
Water, vibration, and time don't work out. The gentlest repairs are the ones you do early, while parts still fit and surface areas are sound. Resealing windows and lining up doors sits squarely in that classification. They're friendly, flexible of little mistakes, and impactful. Take the time to detect appropriately, use products built for RV construction, and deal with light hands. Whether you're parked under cedars on the coast or embeded at a high desert site, a tight window and a true door let you enjoy the factor you bought the coach in the first place.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters
Address (USA shop & yard):
7324 Guide Meridian Rd
Lynden, WA 98264
United States
Primary Phone (Service):
(360) 354-5538
(360) 302-4220 (Storage)
Toll-Free (US & Canada):
(866) 685-0654
Website (USA): https://oceanwestrvm.com
Hours of Operation (USA Shop – Lynden)
Monday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Tuesday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Wednesday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Thursday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Friday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Saturday: 9:00 am – 1:00 pm
Sunday & Holidays: Flat-fee emergency calls only (no regular shop hours)
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Plus Code: WG57+8X, Lynden, Washington, USA
Latitude / Longitude: 48.9083543, -122.4850755
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OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is a mobile and in-shop RV, marine, and equipment upfitting business based at 7324 Guide Meridian Rd in Lynden, Washington 98264, USA.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters provides RV interior and exterior repairs, including bodywork, structural repairs, and slide-out and awning repairs for all makes and models of RVs.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offers RV roof services such as spot sealing, full roof resealing, roof coatings, and rain gutter repairs to protect vehicles from the elements.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters specializes in RV appliance, electrical, LP gas, plumbing, heating, and cooling repairs to keep onboard systems functioning safely and efficiently.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters delivers boat and marine repair services alongside RV repair, supporting customers with both trailer and marine maintenance needs.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters operates secure RV and boat storage at its Lynden facility, providing all-season uncovered storage with monitored access.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters installs and services generators including Cummins Onan and Generac units for RVs, homes, and equipment applications.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters features solar panels, inverters, and off-grid power solutions for RVs and mobile equipment using brands such as Zamp Solar.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offers awnings, retractable screens, and shading solutions using brands like Somfy, Insolroll, and Lutron for RVs and structures.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters handles warranty repairs and insurance claim work for RV and marine customers, coordinating documentation and service.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters serves Washington’s Whatcom and Snohomish counties, including Lynden, Bellingham, and the corridor down to Everett & Seattle, with a mix of shop and mobile services.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters serves the Lower Mainland of British Columbia with mobile RV repair and maintenance services for cross-border travelers and residents.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is reachable by phone at (360) 354-5538 for general RV and marine service inquiries.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters lists additional contact numbers for storage and toll-free calls, including (360) 302-4220 and (866) 685-0654, to support both US and Canadian customers.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters communicates via email at [email protected]
for sales and general inquiries related to RV and marine services.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters maintains an online presence through its website at https://oceanwestrvm.com
, which details services, storage options, and product lines.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is represented on social platforms such as Facebook and X (Twitter), where the brand shares updates on RV repair, storage availability, and seasonal service offers.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is categorized online as an RV repair shop, accessories store, boat repair provider, and RV/boat storage facility in Lynden, Washington.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is geolocated at approximately 48.9083543 latitude and -122.4850755 longitude near Lynden, Washington, according to online mapping services.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters can be viewed on Google Maps via a place link referencing “OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters, 7324 Guide Meridian Rd, Lynden, WA 98264,” which helps customers navigate to the shop and storage yard.
People Also Ask about OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters
What does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters do?
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters provides mobile and in-shop RV and marine repair, including interior and exterior work, roof repairs, appliance and electrical diagnostics, LP gas and plumbing service, and warranty and insurance-claim repairs, along with RV and boat storage at its Lynden location.
Where is OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters located?
The business is based at 7324 Guide Meridian Rd, Lynden, WA 98264, United States, with a shop and yard that handle RV repairs, marine services, and RV and boat storage for customers throughout the region.
Does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offer mobile RV service?
Yes, OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters focuses strongly on mobile RV service, sending certified technicians to customer locations across Whatcom and Snohomish counties in Washington and into the Lower Mainland of British Columbia for onsite diagnostics, repairs, and maintenance.
Can OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters store my RV or boat?
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offers secure, open-air RV and boat storage at the Lynden facility, with monitored access and all-season availability so customers can store their vehicles and vessels close to the US–Canada border.
What kinds of repairs can OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters handle?
The team can typically handle exterior body and collision repairs, interior rebuilds, roof sealing and coatings, electrical and plumbing issues, LP gas systems, heating and cooling systems, appliance repairs, generators, solar, and related upfitting work on a wide range of RVs and marine equipment.
Does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters work on generators and solar systems?
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters sells, installs, and services generators from brands such as Cummins Onan and Generac, and also works with solar panels, inverters, and off-grid power systems to help RV owners and other customers maintain reliable power on the road or at home.
What areas does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters serve?
The company serves the BC Lower Mainland and Northern Washington, focusing on Lynden and surrounding Whatcom County communities and extending through Snohomish County down toward Everett, as well as travelers moving between the US and Canada.
What are the hours for OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters in Lynden?
Office and shop hours are usually Monday through Friday from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm and Saturday from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm, with Sunday and holidays reserved for flat-fee emergency calls rather than regular shop hours, so it is wise to call ahead before visiting.
Does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters work with insurance and warranties?
Yes, OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters notes that it handles insurance claims and warranty repairs, helping customers coordinate documentation and approved repair work so vehicles and boats can get back on the road or water as efficiently as possible.
How can I contact OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters?
You can contact OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters by calling the service line at (360) 354-5538, using the storage contact line(s) listed on their site, or calling the toll-free number at (866) 685-0654. You can also connect via social channels such as Facebook at their Facebook page or X at @OceanWestRVM, and learn more on their website at https://oceanwestrvm.com.
Landmarks Near Lynden, Washington
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- OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is proud to serve the Whatcom County, Washington community and provides mobile RV repairs, marine services, and generator installations for locals and visitors. If you’re looking for RV repair and maintenance in Whatcom County, Washington, visit OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters near Berthusen Park.
- OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is proud to serve the Lynden, Washington community and offers RV storage plus repair services that complement local parks, sports fields, and trails. If you’re looking for mobile RV repair and maintenance in Lynden, Washington, visit OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters near Bender Fields.
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