Custom-made Shower Enclosures to Match Any Tile and Fixture in Portland
Business Name: Heritage Glass
Address: 2005 NE Columbia Blvd, Portland, OR 97211
Phone: (503) 289-3288
Heritage Glass
Company specializing in interior glass fixtures & dividers, with a showroom for shower enclosures.
2005 NE Columbia Blvd, Portland, OR 97211
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Portlandâs bathrooms have a personality you can spot at a glance. In close-in neighborhoods you still find clawfoot tubs and hex tile thatâs seen three generations. Across the river, new townhomes lean Scandinavian with pale oak vanities and matte black trims. In the West Hills, luxury remodels mix bookmatched stone with unlacquered brass that will patina with dew from a morning steam. The common thread is the glass. A custom shower enclosure is the one element that can knit together tile and fixtures that might otherwise clash, and it has to survive our damp climate and the daily pace of a family household.
I started installing shower enclosures in Portland two decades ago. I learned fast that the work lives or dies on little decisions, the ones a catalog never covers. The slope of a curb that looks fine on paper but leaves a bead of water creeping onto your oak floor. The grout lip that nicks a sweepsâ lifetime by half. The hinge placement that makes a 28-inch opening feel cramped, or generous. When you match glass to tile and fixtures rather than the other way around, the room reads as intentional. Thatâs the target here.
What âcustomâ really means for a Portland bath remodel
Custom does not automatically mean expensive. It means built to the constraints of your space, your tile pattern, and your hardware palette. In a city full of bungalows with slightly out-of-square walls, a stock door often forces compromises. An eighth-inch bow in a stud bay is invisible until your glazier hangs a perfectly straight panel against it, and now the reveal looks crooked. A custom panel can be raked to the angle of the wall to keep sightlines clean. That tiny scribe cut is the difference between âniceâ and âwho designed this?â
When we measure, we map more than width and height. We check the plumb of both walls, the level of the curb, the pitch of the pan, and the exact tile layout. If your subway tile has a running bond, we align the glass clamps so they sit centered on full tiles, not straddling a grout joint where a drill bit can blow out the edge. If you invested in a handmade zellige with inconsistent thickness, we plan our channel or clamp placement to hide tolerances. Portland water is soft to moderate, and many homes run it a bit hot, so we plan for expansion at the header and leave thoughtful gapping that keeps a frameless look without binding.
A full custom enclosure also coordinates with fixtures. If you chose a brushed nickel valve and a knurled pull from a boutique maker, a chrome hinge will feel like a wrong note. Lead times for special finishes run 2 to 6 weeks, longer in holiday seasons. Good planning keeps your project moving. A seasoned glass company will manage those timelines so your tile has cured by the time the hardware arrives, and your shower and mirror package can be installed in a single visit.
Framed, semi-frameless, or frameless: the look and the reality
Shower enclosures sit on a spectrum. Framed units use an aluminum perimeter to hold thinner glass, often 3/16 or 1/4 inch. They cost less and can be extremely watertight. In rentals and secondary baths they make sense. The trade-off is visual heaviness and more places for grime to hide. Semi-frameless reduces metal, typically with a metal header and vertical jambs, but leaves a thicker glass door unsupported at the edge. Frameless uses 3/8 or 1/2 inch tempered glass with discrete clamps and minimal channel. The visual payoff is obvious. You see tile, not trim.
In Portlandâs climate, frameless holds up well. Humidity and temperature swings are mild compared to high desert or mountain towns. Thatâs one reason homeowners here lean toward frameless, especially in primary baths and for homes going on the market. Resale photos are unforgiving, and frameless glass photographs beautifully against bold tile. Still, some rooms benefit from a bit of structure. If you have a 72-inch span for a shower and want a fixed panel without a header, 1/2 inch glass increases rigidity and reduces flutter. If youâre budgeting tightly, a semi-frameless with a clean, low-profile header can look nearly frameless from three steps away and save several hundred dollars.
When clients ask what Iâd put in my own house, I say this. If the tile is the star, go frameless. If the budget is the driver, choose a well-made semi-frameless with a finish that matches your fixtures. If youâre building a long wet room where a header would land right in your sightline, step up to 1/2 inch glass and be precise about the anchoring points. Avoid value-engineered hardware in spaces that get daily use. Youâll hear and feel the difference in year two.
Pairing glass with tile: color, pattern, and scale
Tile controls the mood. Glass should respect it without disappearing entirely. Clear, low-iron glass is my default when the tile has white or light tones. Standard clear has a faint green edge that can cool off a warm palette. Low-iron samples make this obvious. Against a honed marble with a soft beige vein, low-iron preserves the warmth. Against emerald or navy tile, standard clear is usually fine and can even enhance depth. If you plan a terrazzo floor with warm chips and white cement, low-iron on the door reads truer.
Pattern scale matters. If you splurged on a hand-cut mosaic niche, make sure the fixed panel does not obscure it. Swing the door to the opposite side or increase the fixed panel width so the doorâs pull and hinges donât intersect the view. When a herringbone wall meets a linear drain, I try to let the glass lines run parallel to at least one major pattern, which calms the composition. A slightly taller door, say 80 instead of 76 inches, can align a clamp with a grout line or lift the horizontal edge to match the top of a window casing. That alignment makes a room feel finished even when you canât put a finger on why.
For bold geometric tile, keep the hardware minimal. A ladder-style pull, 12 to 18 inches, looks intentional on a large door but can fight with Moroccan or encaustic patterns. A simple 6 to 8 inch C-pull or a small knob keeps the focus on color and motif. Iâve also used offset hinges to bias a door opening away from delicate bullnose edges or an uneven plaster return. Portlandâs older homes sometimes have walls that belly out. Offsetting the pivot point can keep a door from kissing the tile on swing without adding a filler strip.
Finishes that actually match your fixtures
Fixture finishes have exploded beyond chrome and polished nickel. Brass shows up in everything from lacquered to living finishes. Then thereâs black, bronze, gunmetal, and the whole warm gray family. On a shower, the finish choices narrow because the hardware needs to be robust and water-tolerant. Most hinge and clamp manufacturers offer chrome, brushed nickel, matte black, polished nickel, and oil-rubbed bronze as standard. Specialty finishes like brushed gold, satin brass, or pewter exist, but lead times stretch and prices jump. The color match is rarely perfect across brands.
The trick I use: decide whether you want a perfect match, a controlled contrast, or a deliberate blend. If your faucet is a true PVD brushed gold with a slightly rosy tone, and your glass hardware comes in a more yellow satin brass, a near-match can look like a miss. Matte black, however, works with almost anything and ties into door lever sets, cabinet pulls, or a mirror frame. If the bath has mixed metals, I prefer to anchor the shower in one of the tones, often the darker one, and let the mirror or light fixtures carry the second metal. A shower and mirror package designed together avoids the âtoo many metalsâ problem. A single matte black line around a custom mirror can echo a black shower pull without forcing the vanity faucet to go black as well.
If you are committed to brass, choose hardware with a durable coating or be comfortable with patina. Portland air and water will age unlacquered brass quickly, especially in bathrooms without fan ventilation that runs long enough. Iâve watched a bright brass pull soften by 20 percent in color within a month of daily showers. Some homeowners love that change. Others do not. A glazier who handles both residential and commercial glass will know which finishes hold up in high-humidity environments because theyâve seen them in gyms and spas under heavier use.
Doors, panels, and the choreography of a tight space
Portland bathrooms are often tight and quirky. Doors swing into vanities, or a toilet sits too near the shower curb. Hereâs where planning the door type around tile and fixture placement pays off. A swinging door needs room to clear. Building code prefers a door that swings out for egress, though inward swings are common when a bath layout demands it, provided you supplement with a clear path out. If the room is narrow, a sliding door can be elegant, especially with a single bypass and a large fixed panel that shows off tile.
Sliders used to mean bulky headers and visible rollers that looked more barn door than bath. Modern systems hide the mechanics. Low-iron glass and slim rails make a slider feel as open as a swing door. I like sliders above tubs or in alcoves where a fixed panel would pinch the opening. For corner showers, I often run a fixed panel that meets a hinged door at 90 degrees, anchored with a clean miter or a small clamp. The goal is to keep the lines quiet and the footprint generous.
Think about how you enter the shower, where the controls sit, and how you squeegee. If you donât want to reach through the spray to turn on the water, place the mixing valve within reach of the door edge, usually 6 to 12 inches inside the opening. If you have a stunning mosaic on the back wall, hang the door to frame that view, not the shampoo niche. Put the towel hook within two steps of the door swing side. Iâve watched clients fall in love with their tile, then hide it behind a door that opens the wrong way. A half hour with tape on the floor beats living with a daily annoyance.
Sealants, sweeps, and the art of staying dry
A beautiful shower that leaks is not beautiful. Frameless does not mean flood. Water control comes from three places: pan slope, the placement of the door relative to the showerhead, and the line of seals you choose. Portland tile pros usually pitch the pan 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain. If you plan a curbless entry, make sure the main bathroom floor pitch and the shower pitch do not cancel each other out. A tiny hump at the transition can trap water, which eventually works its way under tile or engineered wood.
On glass, clear vinyl sweeps at the bottom of the door and soft magnetic seals at the strike side do most of the work. A low-profile threshold piece can be added to the curb top if your showerhead throws hard at the door. I try to avoid thresholds unless I need them, because they interrupt lines and collect soap. A transom above the door can capture steam and allow it to vent when flipped open. In steamer setups, we gasket the door and add a perimeter seal, then leave a small relief gap, usually above 1/2 inch, for safety and to keep pressure in check.
Caulk choice matters. I use neutral cure silicone around channels and at glass-to-tile transitions. Acid cure silicones can react with natural stone. Portland loves marble and limestone, and they do not love vinegar-scented caulk. A neat silicone bead, tooled carefully, resists mold better than acrylics in a wet zone. Maintenance is simple: after each shower, a quick squeegee. It reduces spotting and the need for harsh cleaners. If you choose a protective glass coating, understand what it truly does. It slows mineral buildup, it does not eliminate it. Portlandâs water is kinder than some cities, but it still leaves a memory if you let droplets dry.
Why a glazierâs layout matters more than a catalog photo
A bath remodel moves fast until it doesnât. Demo and rough-in sprint. Tile can stall if walls arenât square or materials arrive chipped. Glass sits near the end, which means it often gets rushed. Thatâs where a professional glazier earns their fee. The best time to talk to a glass company is right after framing, and again when tile is being laid. A five-minute check can prevent a tile edge that leaves no bite for a clamp, or a pony wall thatâs an inch low and now needs a taller door to align sightlines.
I bring a laser, shims, and a sharpie to the first measure. I mark hinge centers directly on the backer board where possible so the tile setter understands the bearing points. If a client wants a fully recessed U-channel to keep the look crisp, I coordinate with the tile setter to feather that channel before grout. If a slab niche wraps the corner, we plan the joint so the glass line reads clean against the stone. All these micro-steps keep you from the nightmare of drilling into a tile edge and hearing the worst sound in the trade: a long, slow crack.
For homeowners who want one point of accountability, pairing shower work with mirror fabrication helps. A custom mirror cut around sconces or into a sloped ceiling is as exacting as a shower door. If we template both, we can install both in a single day, managing the carrier logistics and minimizing risk to finished surfaces. It also keeps finish matching simple. The same matte black that holds your fixed panel can frame a mirror, or we can keep the mirror frameless with polished edges and let the shower hardware be the only accent.
Matching modern tastes to old Portland bones
Itâs easy to say yes to trends that flood your feed. Matte black, fluted glass, reeded patterns, arched doors. Some belong in a 1920s craftsman, some do not. Iâve set reeded glass as a privacy panel in guest baths that face a shared driveway. It takes the edge off visibility without turning the shower into a lightless box. In a tiny powder room with a shower that never sees sun, I avoid obscured glass on principal. Light matters too much in our gray months. If you crave texture, consider a single fluted panel as a screen with a clear door, or add texture to the mirror instead.
Arches look great on Instagram. They are challenging in real life. Tempered glass must be cut and polished before tempering, so every radius has to be perfect. If your tile arch is hand-built and a little uneven, the glass arch will point out every wobble. You can solve this with a template and careful tile layout, but cost and lead time climb. On a modest bath remodel, I usually guide clients toward a rectangular opening with a softened detail elsewhere, like a radius corner on a fixed panel or a curved ladder pull that nods to the shape without forcing it.
Safety, building codes, and all the unglamorous musts
Every shower enclosure uses tempered safety glass. Itâs required. If you plan a steam unit or a shower near a tub, check whether laminated tempered is wise for sound control or an extra safety margin. In homes with young kids or aging parents, I often spec larger knobs over small finger pulls. Wet hands and small hardware make poor partners. Anti-slip thresholds and soft-close sliders add a layer of forgiveness.
Portlandâs code around egress doesnât micromanage shower door swing in existing homes, but outward swing is still preferred. If you install inward-only due to layout, make sure the door can also swing outward at least partially, or leave enough clear area inside the shower for a safe exit. Ventilation is not optional. A quiet fan on a timer that runs at least 20 minutes after a shower keeps paint, grout, and caulk happier. From a glass perspective, it prevents constant condensation that fogs seals and shortens the life of sweeps.
Anchoring into tile demands the right bit and the right molly or anchor. Screw depth into wood blocking should be planned at framing. If you missed that stage, we can work with specialty anchors, but blocking gives a higher safety factor and reduces the chance of tile blowout. I carry diamond bits in a few sizes and I keep things cool with water while drilling to protect glaze and stone. Patience here saves heartache.
Budget ranges and what drives them
Pricing varies by geometry, glass thickness, hardware finish, and trick details like angled, notched, or notched-and-raked panels. For Portland, a simple frameless door and panel in 3/8 inch clear glass often lands in the 1,300 to 2,200 range installed. A larger corner unit with two panels and a door can reach 2,500 to 4,500, especially with 1/2 inch glass or specialty finishes. Sliders span a wide range. A clean, minimal bypass door over a tub might sit near 1,200 to 2,000. A premium barn-style system in a walk-in can push higher, though many homeowners are moving away from overt barn-door looks.
Low-iron glass adds roughly 10 to 20 percent compared to standard. Specialty finishes can add 15 to 40 percent, and they introduce time risk if a part arrives blemished and needs reordering. Protective coatings add a few hundred dollars depending on panel count. True steam enclosures with transoms and perimeter seals cost more in labor thanks to the precision required. Window glass replacement in the same project is a separate line item, but bundling it with shower work can save a trip charge and lets one crew handle everything that involves glass, from a fogged double-pane sash to the commercial glass storefront in a garage conversion.
Timelines that work with tile and paint
The smoothest jobs follow a simple rhythm. We consult during framing, confirm hardware finishes before tile, return to measure after tile and stone are set and cured, then install 10 to 15 business days after glass order, depending on the complexity and the finish. If you need a rush, we can sometimes shave days, but tempering cycles and finishing windows are not flexible. Try to schedule paint after glass install if you can. Painters are careful, but ladders and hinges in a fresh room find each other.
Allow tile to cure fully. Grout haze makes measurements fuzzy and silicone adhesion poor. I prefer to measure 48 hours after grout. Stone needs to be sealed before we caulk channels, especially soft marbles. If weâre replacing a warped or cracked bathroom window as part of the project, we slot that install before shower glass to keep dust and putty away from your new enclosure. A good glass company can juggle both with one crew, saving you coordination headaches.
Care and maintenance that preserve clarity
Daily care is small and consistent. Keep a squeegee in the shower, ideally with a hook away from the water stream. Ten seconds on the door and fixed panel saves you money on cleaners and keeps seals clean. Weekly, wipe hardware and sweeps with a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive pads. If you chose oil-rubbed bronze or a living finish, a gentle soap-and-water wipe keeps the patina even. Do not attack hard water with acids on natural stone showers. A pH-neutral cleaner is your friend. If you use a protective coating on the glass, follow the manufacturerâs maintenance schedule. Reapply as directed, typically every 12 to 24 months for consumer products, longer for factory-applied options.
Seals and sweeps are consumables. Expect to replace door bottoms every 18 to 36 months, sooner in high-use showers. Hinges benefit from a light check once a year. A quarter turn on a set screw can clear a sag before it shows. If a door begins to bind or kiss a curb, call your glazier. The fix is simple when caught early, expensive when a tile edge chips or a hinge plate tears.
When a commercial mindset helps a residential bath
I spent years on commercial glass before focusing on residential, and I still bring that discipline into homes. Commercial work teaches you how materials behave under abuse. It shows you what sealants fail under UV at a storefront and which gaskets stay supple in a gym shower that runs a hundred cycles a day. It also teaches project sequencing, the value of a thorough punch list, and the habit of looking for how a user moves through space.
Portlandâs residential clients benefit from that mindset. If a teenager will slam a slider, Iâll nudge you toward a system with a tested soft-close. If a rental unit needs a sturdy, watertight framed door, Iâll steer you there and spend your money on a good fan and a durable sweep, not on a finish that wants coddling. When a bath sits under a skylight that cooks one corner every afternoon, Iâll choose a hardware finish that laughs at UV. The end result is a shower that looks designed and lives easily.
A simple path from inspiration to installation
If youâre collecting tile samples and fixture finishes, bring them to your glazier early. A glass pro can help you avoid missteps and see opportunities, like aligning a door top to a window mullion or borrowing a line from a wainscot to set the height of a fixed panel. If you need window glass replacement elsewhere in the house, add it to the same visit. If your project includes a gym or studio with mirrors, plan that at the same time. Fewer trips, cleaner coordination, better finish matching.
Here is the quickest way to a good outcome:
- Share your tile layout, fixture list, and a rough floor plan before tile goes up. Note wall conditions that are out of square.
- Decide on finish strategy early: perfect match, contrast, or blend. Get real samples in your light.
- Choose door type based on space choreography: swing, slider, or doorless. Confirm control placement and towel reach.
- Ask for low-iron if your palette is light, standard clear if your tile is dark. Consider coating if you dislike squeegees.
- Schedule measure after grout cures, and installation after paint. Keep the fan running and the room dust-free.
That is the only list you need. Everything else is a conversation on site with the person holding the level.
The Portland particulars that make a difference
Our city has rain for months and glorious dry spells that make rubber shrink and wood swell. Bath exhaust fans clog with dust from wood stoves and wildfire smoke in dry summers. Old leaded glass windows sweat in winter and drip into sash pockets. These realities nudge small decisions. I spec slightly firmer door sweeps for baths that sit cold and damp. I avoid placing a hinge within a few inches of a window trim that might wick moisture. I remind clients with Heritage Glass window glass replacement single-pane windows that a shower in that room will drive condensation, and I offer to quote a simple insulated unit with obscured glass that keeps privacy without fighting the shower. Those little choices protect your investment.
I also ask about lifestyle. Dog wash station in the shower? Weâll set the door with enough clearance for a ramp and plan the curb height so youâre not lifting a muddy lab. Aging in place? Letâs widen the opening, select a sturdy through-the-glass grab bar, and keep thresholds low. A steam lover who wants to sit for 30 minutes on Sundays? Weâll gasket the enclosure, add a transom, and think about the finish that wonât mind that environment.
A well-designed enclosure doesnât shout. It lets your tile and fixtures do the talking, keeps water where it belongs, and opens the room visually. Thatâs why homeowners call a glass company after the tile is set, but the best results come when the glazier is part of the bath remodel conversation from the start.
Real numbers from recent projects
In a Northeast Portland bungalow, we fit a frameless door and panel over a new mosaic pan. The homeowner chose standard clear glass because the wall tile was a deep forest green. Matte black hinges and a small 6 inch pull aligned with the vanity hardware. We sized the door at 28 inches and raised the overall height to 80 inches to match the top of an adjacent window trim. Cost landed at roughly 1,800 and installation took two hours on site. Two years later, the only service call was a sweep replacement, under 75 dollars with labor.
Across the river in a new build, the primary bath ran a 10 foot wet room with a ceiling-mounted rain head, a wall shower, and a freestanding tub sharing the space. We built a single fixed 1/2 inch low-iron panel at 48 inches wide with a slim header to brace against a side wall. Hardware in polished nickel matched the plumbing. Because the palette was bright - white marble with warm veining - low-iron was worth it. The glass held the warmth without green cast. The panel ran just to the edge of the tub, and a scribed notch cleared the tub lip with a 3/16 gap for silicone. The effect was seamless, cost about 3,600, and it reads as part of the architecture.
In a rental ADU, budget and durability ruled. We installed a semi-frameless slider over a tub in brushed nickel, a stock finish. The tile was a simple white 3 by 6 with gray grout, so standard clear glass looked crisp. The header was minimal, rollers quiet, and the unit sealed well enough that tenants could be careless without soaking the floor. Price was just under 1,300 and maintenance has been essentially zero apart from a quick rail wipe every few months.
Finding the right partner
Many shops can sell you glass. Fewer will stand in your bathroom with a level, a roll of blue tape, and the humility to say, âLetâs move that hinge three inches so youâll see the pretty part of your tile.â Ask about experience with your exact tile, whether thatâs glass mosaics, natural stone, or handmade zellige. Ask to see hardware finishes in person, not just on a phone. If a company also handles commercial glass, take that as a good sign for scheduling discipline and hardware durability, not as a threat to craft.
A solid glazier will talk you out of things that wonât live well, and into small upgrades that change everything. They will be frank about lead times and honest about cost swings. Theyâll keep your bath moverâs momentum intact, coordinate with your tile setter, and leave the room cleaner than they found it. That level of care is what makes custom glass feel effortless, which is how it should feel once the last bit of silicone skins over.
Portland homes reward that care. When you open a door that swings true, when the glass edge lines up with a grout joint, when the hardware finish echoes your faucet without shouting, you feel it. The room flows. Your tile and fixtures belong. And the glass, quiet and strong, does exactly what it was meant to do.
Heritage Glass uses highly trained glass installation teams
Heritage Glass emphasizes exceptional customer service
Heritage Glass aims to provide competitive pricing
Heritage Glass offers plate glass and insulated window replacement for commercial projects
Heritage Glass installs showcase glass and shelves in commercial settings
Heritage Glass installs storefront aluminum frames
Heritage Glass displays past project examples in its project gallery
Heritage Glass partners with trusted glass suppliers
Heritage Glass provides free project estimates upon contact
Heritage Glass has a contact phone number for inquiries (503) 289-3288
Heritage Glass operates Monday through Friday
Heritage Glass is a commercial and residential glass installation company
Heritage Glass is located in Portland, Oregon
Heritage Glass was founded in 1970
Heritage Glass serves the Portland Metro and surrounding area
Heritage Glass specializes in commercial glass installations
Heritage Glass installs storefronts and secure glass doors
Heritage Glass provides tenant improvement glass services
Heritage Glass offers residential shower glass installation
Heritage Glass offers a broad selection of glass and hardware options
Heritage Glass has a phone number of (503) 289-3288
Heritage Glass has an address of 2005 NE Columbia Blvd, Portland, OR 97211
Heritage Glass has a website https://www.heritage-glass.com/
Heritage Glass has Google Maps listing https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZAZDjqmi5bpCQR9A8
Heritage Glass has Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087644615356
Heritage Glass Best Glazier Award 2025
Heritage Glass earned Best Customer Service Award 2024
Heritage Glass placed Top in Custom Shower Enclosures 2024
People Also Ask about Heritage Glass
What types of glass services does Heritage Glass offer?
Heritage Glass provides both commercial and residential glass services, including installation of storefronts, secure glass doors, tenant improvements, mirrors, heavy glass, and custom shower glass enclosures
Where is Heritage Glass located and what areas do they serve?
Heritage Glass is located at 2005 NE Columbia Boulevard in Portland, Oregon and serves the Portland Metro area, including surrounding communities like Gresham, Vancouver, and Hillsboro
How long has Heritage Glass been in business?
Heritage Glass has been providing professional glass installation services since 1970, giving them over 50 years of experience in the industry
What should I expect during the glass installation process?
Heritage Glass emphasizes clear communication, competitive pricing, and professional service. Their team works closely with clients to understand project requirements and delivers high-quality installations on time and within budget
Where is Heritage Glass located?
Heritage Glass is conveniently located at 2005 NE Columbia Blvd, Portland, OR 97211. You can easily find directions on Google Maps or call at (503) 289-3288 Monday thru Friday: 7:30am to 3:30pm
How can I contact Heritage Glass?
You can contact Heritage Glass by phone at: (503) 289-3288, visit their website at https://www.heritage-glass.com/,or connect on social media via Facebook
Salty's on the Columbia River. Near Saltyâs on the Columbia River, waterfront properties often rely on durable commercial glass, quality residential glass, and expert glass installation services.
