Installing a brand-new shower system 67477

Installing a New Shower Unit

An effective shower setup needs cautious preparation and a great deal of work. Most of the times, you will need to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, installing the pipes, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you should choose the kind of shower that you wish to install. It is very important to determine whether the selected shower can managing specific systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower systems nowadays are created to be flexible to various water pressures (such as kept hot water and cold mains).

It is also crucial to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Kinds of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to install. However, although the hose connection is simple, it is easily removed. Additionally, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature level.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very cheap option and no additional pipes is included. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise suffer from inconvenient temperature control options.

Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously discussed mixers. They likewise require additional plumbing of hot and cold supply of water pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. Among the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of hassle-free temperature level control. However, it is the most expensive of the various mixer options.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of a powerful electric pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated up directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system enables the temperature and pressure to be changed by means of a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps in other places in usage within the home. A significant downside of electric showers is that the control knob only permits the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this issue is dealt with in some models which are offered with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the type of shower you wish to set up, the shower head must either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.

Before starting, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drainage system to get rid of the drainage will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if a rapid or electric shower unit is being installed.

Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they ought to be provided a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and Hastings plumbing repairs plastered over to neaten the total look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the main shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some might require tightening.

If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to turn off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there ought to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower

The cold water tank can be lifted to a greater height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance below it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you pick this option, the primary and distribution pipes will likewise have to be raised to meet the brand-new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to utilize 15mm diameter supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding preserve optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. Furthermore, by reducing the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the supply of water. You can accomplish this by bending the pipes instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Breaching or overlooking local code restrictions.

# Using pipes that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.

# Not using tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.

# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.

# Not appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, constantly run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.