Setting up a new shower unit 42783

Installing a New Shower Unit

An effective shower installation requires cautious planning and a lot of work. In many cases, you will need to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and ending up walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you should decide on the kind of shower that you wish to set up. It is necessary to determine whether the picked shower is capable of managing particular systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower systems nowadays are developed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).

It is also important to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and incredibly basic to set up. However, although the hose pipe connection is basic, it is easily dislodged. In addition, it is troublesome to change the temperature.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive alternative and no additional plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also experience troublesome temperature control alternatives.

Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously pointed out mixers. They also require additional plumbing of hot and cold supply of water pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from becoming too hot. Among the most significant advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of convenient temperature control. Nevertheless, it is the most expensive of the various mixer alternatives.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing an effective electric pump that is capable of modifying both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water tank and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is very important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature level and pressure to be changed via a knob. Models with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the home. A major disadvantage of electric showers is that the control knob just enables the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a higher pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is often weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this problem is taken on in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the kind of shower you wish to set up, the shower head need to either be fitted in local plumbing company order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.

Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drainage system to get rid of the waste water will need to be prepared. Both positions of recommended top plumbers the cable television path and the shower switch will also require to be thought about if an instant or electrical shower system is being installed.

Use the guideline guide offered with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the supply of water. In order to safeguard the pipes, they ought to be offered a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be providing the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water system and test the pipes for any leaks, as some might need tightening.

If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have actually been made (there need to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be raised to a higher height (sometimes as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support below it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you pick this alternative, the primary and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to meet the brand-new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so as to preserve maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. In addition, by minimising making use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the supply of water. You can accomplish this by flexing the pipes instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or neglecting regional code restrictions.

# Using pipes that are too small.

# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.

# Not setting up an air gap filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto top plumbing professionals after the finished wall remains in place.

# Not top plumbing contractors appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can cause issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.